login   |    register
The Garage
For general automotive modeling or non-modeling topics.
Hosted by James Bella
Porsche campaign anyone?
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 02:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel only now I became aware of the lack of detail on the bottom side of the kit. I know they were aerodynamic clean, yet...

As usual, good care for details that should teach us something

Gabriel




Gabriel,
Yep. The smoother the bottom tray & tunnels, the easier it is to move the incoming air out through the rear end, and at the same time create some down force as well.

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 01:24 AM UTC
Joel only now I became aware of the lack of detail on the bottom side of the kit. I know they were aerodynamic clean, yet...

As usual, good care for details that should teach us something

Gabriel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 01:20 AM UTC
Michael, very good work on those decals for sure. Yes, Cartograf are about the best in the world at this time and Tamiya, Airfix, Special Hobby add them to their packages.

The glazed surfaces are the last ones to be added to the model - as Joel mentioned already - because they are very susceptible to staining / scratching during the final stages of bodywork.
You haven't mentioned what clear you're going to apply - I hope you are aware that some clears are very hot and can shot your decals.

KUTGW!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2018 - 09:01 AM UTC
Just a quick note that I just posted my latest update in the main Car section of the site.

I finished up painting the chassis, and started on the cockpit with some major corrections.






Joel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2018 - 03:21 AM UTC
Michael.
Just a great job on the decaling. I'm super impressed.

I love Cartograf decals, and hate Tamiya's as their thickness makes them a nightmare, but for those few times I need to use them, my choice of decal solutions is Mr. Hobby's Mr. Mark Setter, and Mr. Mark Softner. They will literally work on the most difficult decals, but destroy thinner ones for sure.

As for your clear coats, the glass gets installed after not before. If there are scratches that need to be taken care of, do all of that work off body.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel
Cosimodo
#335
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,090 posts
Auto Modeler: 81 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2018 - 03:25 PM UTC
A long week of applying decals. I had hoped that it wouldn't be too bad given they were Cartograf rather than Tamiya usual decals but the complex curves of the Porsche caused plenty of headaches. Still a couple of bits too finalise behind the rear wheel arch.







Still a bit of clean up also required for the liberal use of decal softener.

Last question before I take the big leap with the clear coat. Do you install the "glass" and clear coat that or do that after?

cheers
Michael
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 01:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text


So sorry to read of your misfortune. I think some plastics are like that i.e. no warning that the tipping point has been reached. They don't soften gently but just collapse. It may yet be good for a street scene diorama set in Paris. Just add a few figures in yellow vests
A copper VW with carbon fibre highlights! I am sure that somewhere someone has one of those. i am looking forward to your version.



I keep thinking that the copper paint stored the heat actually and released it when was "saturated". It acted more the way the metals melt, not the plastic. Anyhow, it doesn't make much difference now...

When comes about beetles, you find everything out there. Their affordability and constructive simplicity made them an all time favorite for custom shops I don't have a specific one in mind but, as you said, it might be one lurking somewhere out there

Cheers!
Gabriel
Cosimodo
#335
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,090 posts
Auto Modeler: 81 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 09:49 PM UTC
Ah Gabriel,
So sorry to read of your misfortune. I think some plastics are like that i.e. no warning that the tipping point has been reached. They don't soften gently but just collapse. It may yet be good for a street scene diorama set in Paris. Just add a few figures in yellow vests
A copper VW with carbon fibre highlights! I am sure that somewhere someone has one of those. i am looking forward to your version.

cheers
Michael
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 07:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


This campaign I believe runs for till 1/1//20, so you have plenty of time before your vacation to order and start a kit that you're really interested in, then finish it up if necessary when you get back from vacation.

the Tamiya Bug sure doesn't sound like much of a fun nor interesting build, and it's certainly no Porsche. Yep, Dr. Porsche designed the original VW prior to WWII, so technically it does fit the campaign's scope.



Joel, I was pushing this build too hard and too far from the good beginning and I knew all along the disaster is looming - so did'n really came as a shock for me.
Yet the experiences are valuable and I'm going to apply them right away, on the Beetle. Guess what! The New Beetle is going to be copper with copper weave CF roof Also I am thinking to some CF interior inserts.

VW Beetle is a fun car, but not a performance car for sure! My father owned a Fiat 850 (the same concept as the original Beetle) and it was a real hazard during the winter

Although Bettle and Porsche stem from the same design, the New Beetle is a completely different thing. It is built on Golf platform, has a front mounted engine; only the body is reminiscent of the original design. That's why I don't think is a legitimate build for the GB, yet I'm posting here just to maintain continuity and to prove (hopefully) that my experiments were not in vain.

There is time for a build in four months, but my time is commited somewhere else: I have to finish my EIndekker before the end of December, then I have to try and finish a T-44 full interior before I go - and this is a little too hard already. To be seen.

Until we see how my projects will develop, I'm following with much interest Michael's build - he reached the tipping point too - and, of course, yours!

Cheers!
Gabriel



Gabriel

I do see your point about the new Bug vs the old Bug. Funny you should mention the Fiat 850. Back in the mid 70s my oldest friend bought a used Fiat 850, and wanted to use it for some time trials, etc. So we tweaked the engine some, and did a lot of suspension work to really stiffen it up. Well, the front shocks were attached to the pressed chassis, and slowly but surely pushed up the mounting plates. We had to reposition them and then add stiffener plates. Worked to some degree.

Looking forward to seeing your Bug build progress for sure.

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 02:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text


This campaign I believe runs for till 1/1//20, so you have plenty of time before your vacation to order and start a kit that you're really interested in, then finish it up if necessary when you get back from vacation.

the Tamiya Bug sure doesn't sound like much of a fun nor interesting build, and it's certainly no Porsche. Yep, Dr. Porsche designed the original VW prior to WWII, so technically it does fit the campaign's scope.



Joel, I was pushing this build too hard and too far from the good beginning and I knew all along the disaster is looming - so did'n really came as a shock for me.
Yet the experiences are valuable and I'm going to apply them right away, on the Beetle. Guess what! The New Beetle is going to be copper with copper weave CF roof Also I am thinking to some CF interior inserts.

VW Beetle is a fun car, but not a performance car for sure! My father owned a Fiat 850 (the same concept as the original Beetle) and it was a real hazard during the winter

Although Bettle and Porsche stem from the same design, the New Beetle is a completely different thing. It is built on Golf platform, has a front mounted engine; only the body is reminiscent of the original design. That's why I don't think is a legitimate build for the GB, yet I'm posting here just to maintain continuity and to prove (hopefully) that my experiments were not in vain.

There is time for a build in four months, but my time is commited somewhere else: I have to finish my EIndekker before the end of December, then I have to try and finish a T-44 full interior before I go - and this is a little too hard already. To be seen.

Until we see how my projects will develop, I'm following with much interest Michael's build - he reached the tipping point too - and, of course, yours!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 01:31 AM UTC
Gabriel,
A nightmare for sure. Believe me when I say that I feel your paint, frustration, & sense of loss. I've been there many times for numerous mistakes both by me and even worse the manufacture. Look at it this way, at least you weren't working on the real car that you bought for your dream sports car.

I owned a brand new 1969 VW Beatle after the traffic court judge convinced my father to not let me drive my beloved MGB on the road as it was more race car then street car, and drive it on the track. Well, the Bug experiment didn't last more then 6 months, as it sure wasn't a girl magnet, and none of my buddies wanted it parked near their MGAs & Bs. So I traded it in for a used 1967 MG Midget, which is another long and very colorful story. For now just imagine a Midget with a duel side draft two barrel Webber carb, and a custom made exhaust header, Abarth exhaust, and that was just the start of it modifications.

This campaign I believe runs for till 1/1//20, so you have plenty of time before your vacation to order and start a kit that you're really interested in, then finish it up if necessary when you get back from vacation.

the Tamiya Bug sure doesn't sound like much of a fun nor interesting build, and it's certainly no Porsche. Yep, Dr. Porsche designed the original VW prior to WWII, so technically it does fit the campaign's scope.

One thing I do use for tough finish prep work, is the full range of Tamiya sponges: 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, & my favorite 3,000. I do believe that they make 800 emery cloth, but I've never found it in any auto store as yet.

I wish I could have been more help with the 2K venture, but I've stuck to my 1st love Mr. Hobby Lacquer Super Gloss as it's so much easier to use, and certainly way cheaper.

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2018 - 02:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Cripes, I step out of the country for a week and Gabriel has painted and repainted his car seven times, fitted decals front and back, but in what should the simpler decision, can't decide what colour the interior should be!
Great looking Porsche Gabriel. I think the bronze carbon weave looks spectacular with the gloss black. You've taken this to new heights!

Meanwhile I have begun the process of applying the more than 60 decals to the 934. Should be done by the weekend and then my moment of truth, a first gloss coat.
Actually I should say building a race car is a good first way to get into car building. Those decals sure can hide a lot of small issues.

cheers
Michael




Michael,
You've discovered that Gabriel can work wonders in short order.

I'm looking forward to seeing your 934 all dressed up in it's decals.

Joel



Thanks, Michael and Joel

This time Gabriel worked the biggest wonder at all: he redesigned the Porsche but seems that nobody likes his visionary styling :


Oh, boy! I've done it! I was only half way happy with the last 2K coat and I decided to sand it slightly and apply a last one. I tried 3000 grit sponge and... nothing! The resin is so hard, the sponge just squeal haplessly on the surface. One has to press like a madman to leave some minute scratches, let alone polish properly. I took then to my Proxxon and my Novus 2 and try it out. 5000 rpm - nothing. Only at 8000 rpm some results started to show and at 9000 rpm it actually worked. So I went polishing the surface all about. One or twice my Proxxon kicked and the metallic shaft touched the model - not a scratch! (I'm falling completely for this 2K thing). After some serious polishing, I went to the paint booth - now the finish was smoother but somewhat hazy - nonetheless I could see the reflection of my dumb face in it. I applied a wet coat of 2K - it was all I need it and looked fantastic. Then I have noticed on the bonnet a lot of "pimples" of half dried resin or something; perhaps when I sprayed the pillars I over-sprayed the bonnet or something like that. So I had a beautiful car - mirror finish - with an ugly bonnet. I remembered then that - when I was fixing boats - we were using heat gun to level out and to degass the resin. So i took the heat gun and started flashing the resin. It worked! The resin on the tip of the bonnet started leveling out as under a charm. Focused on the operation, I didn't noticed I went to close to the car's body and - suddenly - the A pillar in the right side collapsed. No warning, no smell, nothing! Just twisted in a fraction of a second!

Well, now I have a beautiful "crashed" body for a diorama :


Ironically, I cannot even rust the thing, because it was made from aluminum and fiber!

So! What now?

Well, another build, of course!
The only problem is I have no other Porsche since I bought this only one for the GB. To my bitterness, I completed and sent my last order before my return from Europe just the night before! Oh, well...

The only kit from my stash (the incoming order counted in) that has anything to do with Ferdinand Porsche is Tamiya's New Beetle which I started already.

Because I don't want to let you alone, I will keep posting my build here, in a hors concours race.

UPDATE - new beginning
The kit from Tamiya is the poorest in terms of quality and engineering I ever had from them. The molding is good - no flash at all, but the haste in releasing this kit is obvious:

My best guess is that this kit is improvised from other kits. Inside the tires is stamped "TOYOTA" and the bottom pan seems to be re-worked from another master.

The body shell is quite nice and the parting lines smartly disguised in the design lines. Still some bits needed to be cleaned up:


The panel lines are also too shalow and I rescribed all of them - fortunately are just a few:


Probably the worst of all is the yellow plastic. I had to use black primer just to block the translucency of the plastic - otherwise I'll never get a decent paint job on it because of refraction (optical contamination I shall say):


His is something which I normally I don't do, but I try to regain the lost time - and I need badly to block that yellow:


The kit has no engine and actually doesn't need one since the bonnets don't open and this huge shield covers it from underneath:


The interior is "bathtub" type without door cards - I think Tamiya is the last company to do so, unfortunately. The detail is soft, unfortunately, especially on the doors and rear seats and it's going to be a nightmare to paint because the exterior color covers much of the rear panels and dashboard...


The dashboard is nicely molded but as a single piece, pedals included, making the painting and detailing difficult:


Preliminary conclusions: I'm not very happy with the detail and the general engineering - definitely not a typical Tamiya. On the other hand, the short parts count might help me regain the lost ground... to be seen!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2018 - 01:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Cripes, I step out of the country for a week and Gabriel has painted and repainted his car seven times, fitted decals front and back, but in what should the simpler decision, can't decide what colour the interior should be!
Great looking Porsche Gabriel. I think the bronze carbon weave looks spectacular with the gloss black. You've taken this to new heights!

Meanwhile I have begun the process of applying the more than 60 decals to the 934. Should be done by the weekend and then my moment of truth, a first gloss coat.
Actually I should say building a race car is a good first way to get into car building. Those decals sure can hide a lot of small issues.

cheers
Michael




Michael,
You've discovered that Gabriel can work wonders in short order.

I'm looking forward to seeing your 934 all dressed up in it's decals.

Joel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2018 - 01:22 PM UTC
Gabriel,
the shell looks fantastic with the CF wing. I'm really looking forward to seeing what Magic you're going to pull out of your hat with the interior.

Joel
Cosimodo
#335
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: September 03, 2013
KitMaker: 1,090 posts
Auto Modeler: 81 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 09:51 PM UTC
Cripes, I step out of the country for a week and Gabriel has painted and repainted his car seven times, fitted decals front and back, but in what should the simpler decision, can't decide what colour the interior should be!
Great looking Porsche Gabriel. I think the bronze carbon weave looks spectacular with the gloss black. You've taken this to new heights!

Meanwhile I have begun the process of applying the more than 60 decals to the 934. Should be done by the weekend and then my moment of truth, a first gloss coat.
Actually I should say building a race car is a good first way to get into car building. Those decals sure can hide a lot of small issues.

cheers
Michael
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 02:12 PM UTC
Thanks, Joel!
By now the resin is hard enough to fiddle with it and I have to say that I am very pleased with the shine, but there is still place for improvement. The edges of the reflections are a little fuzzy, sign that the surface isn't yet as smooth as mirror. After another 24 hours I will deal with it. I will try and see first if I can get the mirror finish just by polishing with my Proxxon. If not, back to light sanding and 2K!

UPDATE - which grey is Porsche grey?
I have google it up (again) for 959 interiors and here are my finds:
1. All black : It looks good, but it doesn't work with my black exterior.
2. Reddish brown : probably best suited for my intention to add some CF inserts inside, but the simple thought of a brown dash with silver inserts make me cringe...
3. Three tone Komfort interior: this one looks the best, but doesn't "bundle up" with my CF...
Also my stocks are completely devoid of acrylic grey, except for RLM02 and RLM66. I called my old friend Liquitex to help me out. I have mixed a dark-medium gray from Ivory black and Titanium white, but it was somewhat lacking "personality". I added then some orange, just the tiniest bit to make the color steer a little towards beige. I have sprayed the whole "bathtub" and the front seats with it. This is going to be the darkest color of the tapestry. The light gray and silver (maybe titanium gold) inserts are to be painted by hand.


I couldn't resist to have a peek at the whole assembly and I dry fit here the engine cover and the spoiler:


The whole assembly - I'm still considering to redo the runner boards with CF, as per original plan...


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 09:46 AM UTC
Gabriel,
The Gloss coat looks tremendous Now that's one great shine.

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 04:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gabriel,
Thanks for jogging my retarded memory into actually remembering the start of your build with the spoon test. The Back over the various base colors while hard for me to see what you're seeing, does indeed look like the black pops most with the Copper while the Bronze is a close 2nd.



No worries, Joel, I know I posted the spoon experiment well ahead of its time and, naturally, you lost connection. Yes, it's hard to see indeed on the screen, because it is all about under-shine. TCP - 755 over black remains "dead" glossy black; over silver has the best under-shine but gets a grayish cold tinge; over gold (bronze) steers a little towards green; over copper has a richer, warmer tone and a less cold shadow contrast (all the above under 5500K light).

UPDATE - Rise and shine!
With all the body sanded and patches fixed, I went on to apply the decals. And, yes, it is all complicated as it looks, over three grilles at three different angles over a curved surface. They drunk a lot of MicroSol but eventually conformed:


After decaling solution was dry... the moment of the truth, the moment that makes or breaks a model - the clear-coating:


I'm not sure yet if this is the last coat or not - it looks quite good - the practice carried over the copper coat paid off and there is no mistake of which I am aware of; however, close inspection is not possible yet - the body is drying in the photo tent and I don't want to raise dust fumbling too much around with the camera:


The same went for the engine cover (not pictured) and for the spoiler:


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 01:42 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Thanks for jogging my retarded memory into actually remembering the start of your build with the spoon test. The Back over the various base colors while hard for me to see what you're seeing, does indeed look like the black pops most with the Copper while the Bronze is a close 2nd.

You're making steady progress no matter how small some of the steps are, as the kit corrections take time.

I'm going to make a small update post today in the forum on the Porsche, as it's really is the epidemy of carelessness and stupidity

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2018 - 03:07 PM UTC
Joel, I apologize for the confusion. The copper paint was sacrificial from the good beginning - just an undercoat to enhance the pearlescent effect of TCP-755 paint. It just went so smooth that anyone believed is the final coat

Here my tests before even opening the sprue bags:




I'm not sure how good can be seen on your screen, but the copper helps a lot with the "carbon flash" graphite grease effect

Actually I don't like solid black too much on auto modeling (except for classic cars and Henry's Fords, of course), but I used TCP-755 on another build for a couple of small sub-assemblies and I found it very interesting. Coincidentally, when doing my research on 959 I run into a video of a very black Porsche which I liked. But even so, due to the scale effect, I couldn't deal too well with the idea of an all-black Porsche (or any other car) so I considered that it will be better to keep some copper in full sight - hence the copper rims and copper weave CF! (I know, I have a twisted mind! )
Now back to build!

UPDATE - less is less
I had big plans for this evening, but it wasn't to be! First off, I have to work tomorrow and I had to cut the bench time short.
Then this:

Well, no big deal, but I still need to wait for putty to dry and then sand and prime.

... an then that:

The back of the seats have the worst kind of ejector pin marks - the slanted ones, half embedded, half extruded. The back of the seats will be (me looking for trouble again!) CF so I will need a very nice surface! Sand and fill, then wait overnight!

The only little thing that was in tonight's plan that I managed to complete it it was the two CF intake funnels (bronze weave this time):


I wished I could say as per modeler's maxim "Less is more," but, in my case, lees is less indeed!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Friday, November 30, 2018 - 02:52 AM UTC
Gabriel,
You're really confusing a very old modeler at the ripe old age of 71 So you sacrificed the Copper paint job and are now going with the Black Metallic over the Copper base?

Sometimes I think that Henry Ford had the best idea with his Model T that he offered it in any color you wanted as long as it was Matt Black

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2018 - 12:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
I'm totally confused. Where did the gloss black paint job come from? Is that the base under the Copper or another build?

Joel



Haha! Joel, that is a good example of confusion a GB can generate. I posted in the warm-up stage of the campaign my color tests of TCP 755 Carbon Flash Black over different finishes and the one over copper looked best - you even have agreed with me at that point. Being a pearlescent color, it benefits massively from a metallic undercoat. The idea with CF decals came only latter and the bare copper spots are in fact support for future decals. The car never intended to be copper, it always intended to be black! The fact that threw you into confusion even deeper it was perhaps my coat of 2K. Well, that it was a "on job experiment", just to see how a eventual future auburn metallic (derivated from the same copper) car will look like.
I know, It all was only partly explained and you won't be the first one to doubt my intelligence after sacrificing that copper finish. Oh, well - at least I know I can achieve it almost at will

UPDATE - patching and stitching
I know I have announced a 48 hrs drying / curing time before any sanding, but then occured to me that TCP paints are acetone based and they should be dry already after 24 hrs. I tested sanding and it worked like a charm. I went on over the entire surface, insisting over the problematic spots, especially over the jagged edges of the teared away areas. Then I sprayed TCP 755 again, to patch the "wounds". I have realized since yesterday already what my mistakes were (I am still new to TCP paints) and the spraying over running boards went impeccable this time. Just see how glossy and smooth they are, straight from the airbrush!


The under-shield of the car was sprayed with Alclad Aqua Gloss - I didn't wanted it to glossy but I rather wanted to preserve that silver aluminum matte effect achieved by mistake a couple days ago. I have masked the areas to remain silver with Tamiya masking tape and sprayed everything else with Rust-oleum satin black, one of my all-time favorite paints (for that kind of job that is). Believe me or not, it was only now that I realized that the two funnels are actually part of the attack fender / diffuser. I kept them silver, against better judgement, of course, just to fool around with some more CF, this time over silver undercoat (to follow):


Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 29, 2018 - 04:12 AM UTC
Gabriel,
I'm totally confused. Where did the gloss black paint job come from? Is that the base under the Copper or another build?

Joel
Szmann
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Netherlands Antilles
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 992 posts
Auto Modeler: 398 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 - 02:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Gabriel,
I'm thinking about trying to print some decals myself, including CF ones. All I have is regular HP InkJet printer. Might start googling decal printing, and see what I can come up with.



There are a few very good YT demos, and Will Pattison has a very good one, if you can stand his ranting. The reason why I just bought my laser printer is because I failed miserably the attempt to print my decals with my jet printer(s). Not only that the ink is washable, but the consistency of decal paper is somewhat jelly like and it stretches to some extent. The best use I ever found for white decal paper was white piping for auto models. The Micro Sol literally "melts" it down and no thickness to speak of remains - they really look "painted on" after clear coating. But please do't look at my experience as being the definitive one - I gave up too early - I've seen other guys that achieved good results - most likely it was my lack of patience and practical knowledge.

Talking about practical knowledge: even after more than a model completed, I still am prone to self-inflicted disasters like the following one:

UPDATE: ups and downs
The etching of the surface of the plastic during stripping was quite bad, as you can see on this underside of the engine compartment cover:


That side it's going to be invisible anyhow, but not the top. I sanded the top with 600 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 Tamiya sanding sponge. finally I applied a hefty coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200, thinned just enough to pass thru my a/b at 20 psi. The intention here was to use Mr. Surfacer as filler rather than primer. It went on smooth and after some more sanding with 2000 grit, the surface is almost restored completely. (The picture shows the part before the sanding of the primer).
.
I prepared the body again by sanding slightly the entire surface with 3000 grit sponge, getting rid of all imperfections in the process:


I masked off the areas over which I intended to lay CF decals later:


And these were the ups. The downs came after:
No the best paint job ever, but I had worst ones Again, my last coat failed - after the second coat, my paint job was looking much more uniform, although not as glossy as this one:



The drama starts only here: I delayed unintentionally the removal of the masks and I pulled off the paint because it was almost dry and the adhesion over 2K very poor:


On the other side is slightly better, but still bad:


What to do now?...
Well, my best guess is that the situation actually is better than it looks. Based on my previous tests, TCP paint sands pretty well and easy. If I manage to taper down smoothly the ripped off edges, I can spray easily the running boards with the same black paint and that is that. The only question mark is if the adhesion of the paint over 2K is good enough to allow me that or it's just going to peel off... to be seen after 48 hrs - I need a well cured paint if I want a good sanding!

Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
_VISITCOMMUNITY
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 8,923 posts
Auto Modeler: 390 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 - 04:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Gabriel
Your home made CF decals in both cases came out perfect. Application wise, the 2nd one looks more in scale.

And see, you did go back to fix an issue rather then just moving on, as almost no one would have even noticed the scale issue.

Joel



Well, I know what you mean. But my answer here is yes and no.

On the detached piece it looks good enough from the firs try, but when attached to the whole assembly, the size of the fiber would have popped out big time. It would have had the same width like a cowboy's buckle belt
Besides, when I printed the pattern, I printed the whole A4 sheet so I said I better waste another five minutes to scale down the entire pattern to save countless minutes in the following builds. Perhaps if I do only inserts or textile patterns on the seats, a whole sheet is a 5-6 models reserve.

Gabriel




Gabriel,
I'm thinking about trying to print some decals myself, including CF ones. All I have is regular HP InkJet printer. Might start googling decal printing, and see what I can come up with.

Joel