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Beemax 1/24 scale Porsche 935 K2 DRM ver
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 09:14 AM UTC
Ok, time to get to work on my next build, and back on track. I've selected from the old stash the Beemax 1/24 scale Team Kremer Porsche K2 car that was built by Kremer for the 1977 DRM series.



the kit isn't a curbside model, but it doesn't have a full engine/transmission either, just the bottom halves, which look great.



and a very complete lower portions of the front and back suspension.

the kit comes with Cartograf decals for either of the Vaillant sponsored cars; one in basic White and the other in Vaillant Green.





and a picture of the car I'll be building.



I've just started on the engine/transmission/front suspension with basic painting, and hope to actually have my 1st update posted in a weeks time.


Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 09:26 AM UTC
Hi Joel

Neat! I've got to admit this is totally new to me - I've never seen the kit (or anything by the manufacturer) on the shelves at my LHS.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 09:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

Neat! I've got to admit this is totally new to me - I've never seen the kit (or anything by the manufacturer) on the shelves at my LHS.

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
Their kits are mostly all European touring race cars. I'm looking forward to building quite a lot of them.

At least you have a LHS. I use to have two within walking distance. now I have a hour plus drive to one that doesn't do much with plastics.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 02:11 PM UTC
Looks great Joel, excellent choice! Following with interest, maybe this will kick some more interest into the Porsche Group Build as well!

Cheers, D
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, May 27, 2019 - 09:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text


At least you have a LHS. I use to have two within walking distance. now I have a hour plus drive to one that doesn't do much with plastics.

Joel



Hi Joel

They are becoming an endangered species over here too. For years we didn't have a LHS on the Isle of Wight at all, just a small section in the toy and sports shop, so it meant trip to the mainland - which made for expensive shopping!

But there is now a neat models and trains shop in Shanklin about 30 mins drive away.

All the best

Rowan
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 02:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks great Joel, excellent choice! Following with interest, maybe this will kick some more interest into the Porsche Group Build as well!

Cheers, D




D,
I sure hope so as these kits are a perfect blend of detail and curbside.

Glad to have you along on this journey.


Joel
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Posted: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 05:17 PM UTC
Hi Joel,
I will be following along on this build. My preference is for European cars and I just bought my first Beemax car, the BMW M3, so I will be interested to see how well your Porsche goes together. Plus Kremer cars are just cool!

cheers
Michael
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 11:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel,
I will be following along on this build. My preference is for European cars and I just bought my first Beemax car, the BMW M3, so I will be interested to see how well your Porsche goes together. Plus Kremer cars are just cool!

cheers
Michael




Michael,

Great choice of car. It's on my short list of must have cars for one of the touring car series around the world. Fortunately, I've found a few excellent AM decal companies that have a ton of the needed team decals for these series. The down side is that they run from $18 or so to even as high as $35!

The formula of semi curbside/detailed is just fantastic for what I'm looking for, and I'm already looking for excuses to change my building schedule from one closed wheel/one open wheel, to two closed wheel/one open wheel. Talk about being fickled

Looking forward to having you along for my 1st Beemax journey. Should be a lot of fun.

Joel
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 08:24 AM UTC
Eagerly following this. Have had the same model for a little while now and I'll also probably build the Peter Gregg driven car. I was a huge fan of Peter in the 70's & up until be committed suicide.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 08:52 AM UTC
Work finally commenced with step 1 on page 1 as the steps for the build seem logical and well thought out. I started by removing all the called out parts, then cleaning them up as needed. The front suspension arms have rather large seams, as does the molded chassis rails for the engine mounts. They certainly don't look like molding flash that neeeded to be removed, so I left them as is, but did remove mold lines from all the other parts, and even sections of the suspension arms.



Next up was to paint everything including the lower engine block. Beemax, which is located in Macau china simply calls out everything that is Aluminum cast, Steel, Polished steel, Aluminum Alloy, etc. to be painted Silver. I've often run into this issue with Chinese kits, so I'm thinking that the issue is that while they most likely have the correct shades of metal in their Chinesed Dialect, they just might all translate into plain old Silver. Fortunately, I've got enough research material to paint the parts the appropriate colors, or get close enough.

The first step was to prime all the parts with Mr.Hobby Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1,500 thinned 1:1 with #400 Mr.Leveling thinner. I gave that a hour to dry, then shot the engine block Aclad2 101 Aluminum. The Transmission was air brushed with 103 Dark Aluminum. The suspension was air brushed with Mig Ammo Polished Steel also thinned with Mr. #400 Leveling Thinner @ a 1:1 ratio.

Now I now that the protocol is to thin true Acrylics with Iso Alcohol, their protiretary Thinner, or distilled Water. But I've always been under the assumption that you can thin everything with Lacquer Thinner, and the two best I've ever used are #400 leveling Thinner, and Tamiya's Yellow Cap that doesn't have a leveling agent as far as I know. I let everything dry over night, then the following day a few coats of Model Master's Glosscoat, thinned with @ a 1:1 ratio with Yellow Cap. Let that dry till the next day, then Tamiya Black panel line wash to both kill the engine and transmssion new look some, and make the details pop.

Next I turned my attention to the all 4 shocks. The shocks where shot with Mig Ammo Polished Steel, given a few hours to dry, then I just applied a liberal coating of Tamiya Black panel line wash between the springs windings. Gave that a good half hour to dry, then I painted the springs Tamiya X-7 Gloss Red. After shaking the bottle I just used the cap which had paint in it, and added one drop of Tamiya Yellow Cap, and then I carefully hand brush painted the springs. It took two coats to get a nice shiny look to the springs.

the drive shafts were painted Mig Ammo Polished Steel, and when dry i added the donuts to each side. And finally I painted the hoses that I'm pretty sure are to funnel the hot turbo gases away from the car with a Dark Gray. I still need to apply a Black wash to them for some depth, as they look pretty poor as they stand right now.

I'm planning just basic wiring and some braided lines for a little added interest. So I drilled the 3 plug holes on each side of the block, and then glued in Red spark plug wires that were just glued off to the hollow top of the block.





And here's how the lower Chassis looks with the engine and suspension installed.



I still need to work on the single Turbo charger, the exhaust headers, as well as disc brake assemblies. Then it's on to the front end. and then my attention will turn to some weathering, but not much of the bottom of the chassis.

Thanks to all for stopping by and checking out my build to date, it's always greatly appreciated.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 08:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Eagerly following this. Have had the same model for a little while now and I'll also probably build the Peter Gregg driven car. I was a huge fan of Peter in the 70's & up until be committed suicide.



Patrick,
Welcome aboard. Should be a really fun build with no real issues that I've found so far.

I also liked Peter Gregg as a driver. Never really understood why he took his own life when he did.

I sure hope that the build answers all your questions and gets you motivated to start your own build. But when you do, please share it with us.

Joel

AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 12:38 PM UTC
Nice work Joel. The variation in the metallic is subtle but enough to separate the components. The red springs and wires look great and the wash just makes the whole picture come alive. Like you said, those grey ducts could use a pin wash to pop the corrugations out.


Quoted Text

After shaking the bottle I just used the cap which had paint in it, and added one drop of Tamiya Yellow Cap, and then I carefully hand brush painted


The poor man's paint pallette! I do this on every build where a drop of paint is enough for the detail painting.

Looking forward to the next update.

Cheers, D

Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, June 01, 2019 - 01:32 AM UTC
D,
So I discovered the poor man's pallet, and never knew it.

One thing I'm quickly loving is that the current bottom engine/transmission, & suspension is really perfect for most sport type closed wheel race cars, as there will always be fully detailed kits from other manufactures focusing on a different group of modelers.

I find this so superior to the old curbside kits like Hasegawa and Tamiya have been pumping out. Personally, I've tried to shy away from them unless I find them for less then $20, especially since I always replace those kit decals. Really, those kits are more about painting, decaling, and finishing then building. Kind of like a 1/43 scale model on steroids. I'm hoping that both companies will up their game and join that segment of the manufactures market.

Joel
Cosimodo
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 09:36 AM UTC
Great start Joel! The engine and suspension look superb. The wash is always the key to top get the details to standout and you do it well.

Cheers
Michael
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:22 PM UTC
Looking good so far Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great start Joel! The engine and suspension look superb. The wash is always the key to top get the details to standout and you do it well.

Cheers
Michael




Michael,

Thanks for checking out the K2 to date.

I'm still working on finishing up the 2 part Turbo charger and exhaust headers. The level of detail that Beemax has designed into the bottom chassis pan section is truly amazing. And honestly, so far every single part has fit perfectly, allowing the build up of detail layers without any issues.

I'm really looking forward to working on the front suspension, and then running some braided lines for a little more added detail.


Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good so far Joel



Russell,

Thanks so much my friend for your thumbs up. It's always greatly appreciated.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 08:54 AM UTC
Work has continued with finishing up the engine/Transmission with the addition of the exhaust headers, and the complex Turbo charger which comprise one rather complex sub assembly. I was really concerned that getting the proper alignment would be an issue, and then connecting the turbo charger to both the intake hoses. Surely one or both would be an issue.

Well, it was quite the opposite. The multi piece turbo charger fit perfectly, and the one piece exhaust header also was a drop in fit once I got the turbo charger aligned correctly. I still didn't glue it in place as I had to just nudge the turbo charger ever so slightly and one intake hose popped into place. Then the other side popped into place with another nudge, but there was a small gap I really couldn't get rid of. I'm convinced it was something I did, not the engineering of the kit. I glued the turbo charger in place with Tamiya Extra Thin, as well as the engine exhaust header, and finally the intake hoses. When dry I filled that small gap with Vallejo White Acrylic putty. I gave it a few hours to dry, then I just painted it with a 0/5 Brush.





I finished up the front suspension, and highlighted all the bolts with Mig Ammo Polished Steel.



At this point the bottom of the 935 K2 is done with the exception of the few braided lines I'm still thinking about adding. I've still got plenty of time to make that decision. Here's a few pictures of the bottom of the chassis.







Thanks to all that stopped by and checked out my build to date. It's always much appreciated.

Joel

AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 01:59 PM UTC
Looks great Joel, moving along very nicely indeed. The headers came up spot on, colour variation and burnt metal on the junction really set it off.

Cheers, D
RussellE
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Posted: Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 10:54 PM UTC
continuing to amaze us Joel with your ability to take a simple kit and turn it into what looks like the real thing
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, June 07, 2019 - 02:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks great Joel, moving along very nicely indeed. The headers came up spot on, colour variation and burnt metal on the junction really set it off.

Cheers, D



D,
Thanks so much for checking out my progress to date. I'm thrilled that you actually could see the variations in Metallics that I used on the header/turbo sub-assembly. I even tried a little of the Tamiya clear Blue at the bends on the exhaust headers, but I'm pretty sure that I buffed off a little to much as it's really hard to see.

Joel


Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, June 07, 2019 - 02:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

continuing to amaze us Joel with your ability to take a simple kit and turn it into what looks like the real thing



Russell my friend,

Thanks so much for your really most kind and positive assessment of my progress to date.

BTW, I actually ordered from Gravity Porsche 930-935 basic White. Comparing it to their true generic White, it does have a slight cream tint to it.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, June 15, 2019 - 08:48 AM UTC
Well, another week has passed, and this time I've got quite a lot done that you can actually see.

I started off by painting all 4 of the disc brakes. Beemax did a really nice job on molding them with venting holes in all the dics. They also took the time to get the brakes correct where the front brakes are duel calipers while the rears are just a single caliper.



My attention now turned back to the interior. The chassis pan was primed in Mr. Finishing Surfacer Light Gray Primer, then when dry was painted Mig Ammo Flat Black. The pedal assembly was just hand painted Aluminum as you won't really see it when the shell is on. The shift lever assembly was painted flat Black and the shift rod shiny steel. Right in front of the pedal assembly is a foot rest that looks like plain old fiberglass, so I mixed my own shade and got it fairly close. It still needs some weathering and scuffing up to blend in with the pit. Next came the seat. It's well molded as the the full seat cushion curls around the basic Fiber Glass seat. I left the seat unpainted as it's already the proper color, but gave it a clear coat of semi gloss Lacquer. Then I painted the rest of the seat flate Dark Gray. I discovered that I didn't have any 1/24 scale 5 way harnesses, so against my better judgement, I used the decals. They look ok, and again, once the shell is on, you won't get a real close up look. I'm curious as to what you guys think.




The fire extinguisher was primed then painted Tamiya gloss Red. The logo is a kit decal, and the aluminum hold down straps are Bare Metal Foil. I've had it forever, but always forget to use it, so it took a really long time to actually cut a single strip out without tearing it. Finally, I got the hang of it. And then I added the fuel and oil lines out of Detail Master Braid.



I built up the 4 piece cage assembly. Here I encounted flash and seams everywhere. Both were easy to remove, so it's a draw. The version of the Kremer car I'm modeling has a Flat Black interior including the roof, and side panels, but the doors themselves were apparently painted White when the body was painted. So Last up but not done as yet is painting the cage. BTW, the fit of the 4 parts is absolutely perfect, and they fit the chassis tub without needing the slightest nudge to pop into place.





Time to deal with the tires and wheels. The kit chrome wheels are absoutely perfect, but the Kremer race versions used disc incerts with small blades to help funnel out the hot brake air. The show versions, and many of the private entries didn't use this option, but once again the car I'm modeling did, so I painted them Flat Black, then glued in place with CCA glue. The final effect is pretty stunning IMHO.



Now i took a good hard look at the main body and there are mold seams in all the usual places, but to my dismay there is actually flash in several areas. For a brand new mold I certainly wasn't expecting that. Yet, they managed to open up all the fender vents perfectly. Go figure that one out.





Here's the shell without the rear wheel fenders.



I glued up both fenders and the fit was nearly perfect. Just a little putty and blending work will be needed.

I wanted to see how the full cockpit with the roll cage matted up with the shell, so here's a few pictures of the dry fitting. So far it's absolutely a perfect fit. I'm hoping that when the instrument panel is added there aren't going to be any surprises.









I still have some electrical wiring to add to the interior, and then it's back to the body shell.

Thanks to all for stopping by and checking out my build to date. It's always appreciated.

Joel




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Posted: Saturday, June 15, 2019 - 11:12 AM UTC
The effect of the decal seatbelts is OK in the pictures, the proof is how do they really look to you.
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, June 15, 2019 - 11:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The effect of the decal seatbelts is OK in the pictures, the proof is how do they really look to you.



David,
Like I said they look ok as is. One thing I totally forgot to do before I took my update pictures, was to give those super shiny Harnesses a coat of Dullcoat. That should make them a tad better.

Joel