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Cars: Other Racing
For automotive racing topics not already covered.
Nunu 1/24 scale Kremer Porsche 935 K3
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 07:18 AM UTC
HISTORY:

After a few weeks to recoupe and recharge my Mojo tanks, it's time to start my next build. And when it comes to sport car/Tin Top racing in the many world wide series, I'm by far a Porsche fan above any and all other makes. So when the Nunu 1/24 scale Kremer Porsche 935 K3 became available, I jumped at the opportunity to review it, and instantly decided to make it my next build, pushing the planned Ebbro Lotus 49 once again off my workbench. And since I recently built the Beemax 1/24 scale Kremer Porsche 935 K2, I just couldn't wait to have these two side by side on my model display.

After Porsche's Overall wins at the 1970 & 1971 LeMans 24 hrs race which was run on the Circuit de la Sarthe using their iconic factory 917k cars. They refocused their goals to only race cars that looked like their current model street cars. So their new generation of race cars would resemble at least to a layman, their 911 series.

1st up was their Carrera RSR cars with normally aspirated engines. By the 1976 season they replaced the Carreras with new Group 4 & 5 turbo engined cars based on the 911. The group 4 cars became known as the 934 series, while the Group 5 cars became the 935 series. With the new rule changes, the Group 5 cars would once again contest for the overall FIA Endurance Championship, so that's what Porsche focused on as their #1 and only factory priority.

Interestingly, the Group 4 934s were very similar spec wise to their street 911 Turbo, and were sold to any privateer since there was no factory team effort. The Group 5 rules allowed vastly more modifications. A totally different suspension with coil springs, adjustable ABS bars, vented disc brakes, a fully designed racing chassis, and the list just goes on. Both car series featured their massive single KKK turbo charger system.

Porsche sold off the previous year's factory team cars to privateers as well as new customer cars using the same last year's specifications. The new team cars naturally were always one step ahead. One such team was The Kremer Brother's Racing Team based in Germany, who had extremely close ties to Porsche. The Kremer Brothers wanted a car equal to the factory cars, so they decided to do some modifications on their own to achieve that goal.

For the 1976 season they raced their modified 935 K1. For 1977 they took their customer 935 and modified it into the 935 K2, which was truly on equal footing with the factory cars. BeeMax has produced a 1/24 scale model of it.

For the 1979 season Kremer modified their customer car in to the 935 K3 which competed against the Porsche factory's 935-79 (more commonly referred to as just 935's), and were once again the equal to Porsche, and even bettered Porsche by winning the overall Group 5 title at LeMans in the pouring rain.

THE BUILD:

There's been quite a lot of discussion about Spot Models having both Nunu and Beemax issuing 1/24 scale 935 K3s. And honestly, it was driving me some what crazy too. The answer to that question is yes and no. They're both releasing 1979 935's, and both are using common parts from the Beemax 935 K2 molds. The NuNu kit is indeed the modified Kremer 935 K3 that won at LemMans, while the Beemax kit looks to be a factory 935-79 fromm that year's LeMans race as well.



Nunu has also produced a Detail Up kit that seems to be the latest rage out of the Orient. So naturally I had to have one.



The black looking ribbon is actually dark blue, the proper color used for the seat harness.

The two decal sheets for the winning LeMans car looks perfectly in register as well as being just thin enough to conform to the many compound curves.



But for this build I wanted to do a very special car, the 935 K3 that Bobby Rahal & Bob Garretson drove which was sponsored by Apple Computers. This was the only time that Apple ever sponsored a race car. Indy Cals actually has this sheet coming out any day, so I ordered one.



Joel



Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 07:19 AM UTC
As so many car modelers, I as prefer whenever possible to start with the body shell, so that I can prep, paint, decal, and finish it, then concentrate on the rest of the build. And as with most Tin Tops, that method works perfectly with the 935 K3 kit.

The body shell has been molded as basically a one pc shell. The mold which was the Beemax 935 K2 has various mold sections, so that they could make several different versions. This does leave quite a few very slight mold lines that needed to be dealt with for the new front clip.



I've gone over the seam lines that needed to be removed on the front clip with a black magic marker. I like this method simply because once the lines are gone, the seams are too.





What really surprised me was the amount of little bits of flash in tight corners and spaces. I guess that it's a small price to pay for the incredible detail that this kit has. If you look closely in the rear end tubing, you'll see flash bits in a few places.



Once I finished cleaning up the front clip, it was time to address the complex flared and enlarged Kremer molded fenders. The kit has them molded in two separate pieces for each side.



I thought about assembling each fender, then gluing them to the body, but the more I thought about it, the more prudent it would be to 1st glue the inner pcs to the body shell, then the following work session, glue the outer facing to the the inner flared wells. After careful test fitting, I glued the inner wells to the body and the fit was nearly perfect. Those seams that you see are on the real car. Remember that these were molded by Kremer not Porsche so they were close but not perfect.



The outer sections were super tricky to correctly align. I'm guessing that the cooling of the plastic caused a tiny bit of shrinking & warping. Also the seam between the two became an issue. Most of the pictures I have don't show any seam, but a few do. The issue for me is that most of the pictures are of restorations! so I have my doubts. I ended up removing them with Tamiya Gray putty as you can see in the picture below mostly because of the overall look in model form. Usually after priming I'll need to give them a final thinned coat to blend them in.



Now for the complext rear wing assembly. It's comprised of 4 pieces with the top and back joining at a angle, they're not square. Nunu designed the wing so that I can use the side plates to properly align the top and back pieces, and they actually perfectly aligned. But I somehow managed to screw up and had a slight gap between one side plate and the top, so out came the Tamiya Putty again.



As for the wing, it's also a 4 piece assembly. Top and bottom with the front and back seams on the bottom. They do require some sanding and then putty work, but I much prefer it over the old way of each seam being on the leading and trailing edges. The wing side plates are molded in plastic and are just way to thick so you're going to have to sand them down, or in my case get the detail up kit, and there's PE plates.



Gotta admit that they look a million times better.

I needed to do a little work on the opening for the rear wing assembly so that it's just a drop in fit. All the seams are once again on the real car as it's the engine Bonnet as well.



I jsut wanted to see how the wing looked, so I just laid it on it, and snapped this picture.



And now you're all up to date.

Joel

Merlin
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 08:17 AM UTC
Hi Joel

Nice start! This is going to look really tasty! Those etched side plates on the wing definitely look "the business".

Major thanks for the tip on using a marker to highlight the mould lines. Like all the best ideas, it's so simple - once you've thought of it, or somebody shows it to you. I'm sat here wondering why it never occurred to me, but I'll remember it now for sure!

All the best

Rowan
Cosimodo
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 11:52 AM UTC
Indeed, great start Joel. I always have to put the body together for a new kit just to see what I am working towards, even though It may not be the first actual work done on the car. I am looking forward to this since I have taken a shine to Porsches from my Kremer 934. I am building one for the next campaign.

cheers
Michael
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 12:06 PM UTC
Rowan,
It's kind of fitting that you're the 1st one to post, as you helped me with that rather long and intricate review.

the magic marker is something I've seen used by a few other modelers. Really makes it easy to remove seam lines. As for the PE, I'm looking forward to seeing just how much of them I can actually use. You know me and PE

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2020 - 12:07 PM UTC
Michael,
So glad to have you along for the journey. I can promise you that like all my builds, it won't be a dull trip for sure.

I really liked your 934, and need one for my Porsche collection.

Joel
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2020 - 09:18 AM UTC
Love the bit, of racing history, you add, to your builds Joel.

Excellent progress, so far.
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2020 - 10:05 AM UTC
Excellent start Joel, the body has come together beautifully and those PE detail parts will certainly add a lot to the end result. I'm really looking forward to following this build.

Cheers, D
bluebell914
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Posted: Friday, February 14, 2020 - 01:44 PM UTC
Joel,
I've been a Porsche owner for nearly 50 years and a competitive driver (no more - eyes) for most of those years. Your historic journey of these cars is spot on. I also have the NuNu car, and will build another version because of the Whittington brothers venture into supporting a racing habit with being drug dealers. I know, it's still history but I won't gentrify it. I'll probably make it into a Coke version.
Just wanted you to know that your history lesson is spot on. You DO know your Porsche.
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2020 - 02:22 AM UTC
Jesper,
Thank you my friend. Glad that my history lessons are generally well recieved. For me, the history of a car is why it's important in the context of racing during that particular era. Often the story behind the car, team, and or drivers is what makes them so special.

Joel


Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2020 - 02:25 AM UTC
D,
Thanks for your Thumbs Up on my start, it's greatly appreciate. As for the PE Up Grade kit, I thought for the few models I actually build in a year, that when these kits are available, I should avail myself of the opportunity to upgrade the kit. So far just those two wing end plates really make a huge difference in the overall look of the wing.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2020 - 02:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,
I've been a Porsche owner for nearly 50 years and a competitive driver (no more - eyes) for most of those years. Your historic journey of these cars is spot on. I also have the NuNu car, and will build another version because of the Whittington brothers venture into supporting a racing habit with being drug dealers. I know, it's still history but I won't gentrify it. I'll probably make it into a Coke version.
Just wanted you to know that your history lesson is spot on. You DO know your Porsche.



Patrick,
Thank you for what you posted, it certainly has a valid ring to it.

While we can't change history, the Kremer car did win the 1979 LeMans race due in great part to the rain with Klaus Ludwig, the Rainmaster driving the last stint. And yes, Bill & Don Whittington made their fortunes importing drugs. Never heard of any other driver or team having hundreds of thousands of dollars in a canvas bag with them at a track. Eventually they got caught along with I believe Sr & Jr. Paul, and all 4 became quests of the US Gov't for quite some time.

I purposely left all of that out of my narrative as it didn't seem to have much to do with the 9835 K3's place in the Porsche Racing History. This is the other main reason I opted NOT to use the kit decals but went for the Apple car instead which I'm duplicating the markings from the Riverside race.

Beemax is coming out with a 935 K3 as well some time this year, the Paul Newman , Rolf Stommelen, and Dick Barbour #70 Hawaiian Tropic car that finished second. This car had a completely different rear wing that I've seen labeled as a factory 935 79.

This is the most confusing Porsche racing era I've yet encountered.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2020 - 10:43 PM UTC
Good to see you couldn't stay away for too long Joel!

A great topic and nice run down on the history of the car.

Looking forward to seeing how that AM photo etch goes with the kit
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2020 - 03:26 AM UTC
Russell,
Thanks for checking out the start of my build. As always it's greatly appreciated.

I'm also looking forward to how I deal with all that PE. One thing I've changed is my brand of CA glue. I'm now using the Loctite regular and Gel over the Gorilla CA, which is even thicker then the Loctite Gel. For the side plates I used the Loctite regular CA and the bonding time allowed some adjustments, then set perfectly.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, February 17, 2020 - 08:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Russell,
Thanks for checking out the start of my build. As always it's greatly appreciated.

I'm also looking forward to how I deal with all that PE. One thing I've changed is my brand of CA glue. I'm now using the Loctite regular and Gel over the Gorilla CA, which is even thicker then the Loctite Gel. For the side plates I used the Loctite regular CA and the bonding time allowed some adjustments, then set perfectly.

Joel



Hi Joel

one thing I've learnt in all my fiddlings with CA and photo etch is to keep my (ZAP) CA in the refrigerator. Nothing makes CA go off quicker than warm temperatures
Generally I use the medium as it gives a good mix between setting time (not too quick) and flow.
Strangely though I find PVA (white glue/gator grip) useful for photo etch too, but it's really a case of horses for courses
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, February 17, 2020 - 10:31 AM UTC
Russell,
Thanks for the tips. To bad that the warmest room in the entire house is my computer/modeling room thanks to all the various computer equipment I have running that throws off more heat then my dinner usually does.

I'll have to negotiate with my better half about storing 3 or 4 bottles of CA glue in the refreg. My motto is better safe then sorry.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, February 17, 2020 - 11:27 AM UTC
Yep, store all of your CA in the fridge, Joel, even the unopened bottles. I've even taken to keeping liquid masking fluid in the fridge as it seems to extend its shelf life too
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 01:55 AM UTC
Russell,
I've got a $9 bottle of Liquid mask on the way from Sprue Brothers, so I need to keep it in tip top condition till the last drop. I would never have thought of also storing it in the refreg. But I'm going to go that route.

My plan so that my lovely wife doesn't threaten my life, is to store my CA and liquid mask in a tallish plastic bin. Neat, clean, and tidy. Sure hope that does the trick.

Joel
Dixon66
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 03:32 AM UTC
You all gave me a thought, I'm going to add in a dorm or hotel room size fridge in my workshop when I finally get around to updating from more than just a desk. Place to keep the CA, masking fluids, and a drink or two cold.

Probably not beer though, I always seem to forget it is there as I get engrossed in building or painting and it goes too warm by the time I've gone to drink some more.
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 04:44 AM UTC
David,
Now there's a idea that never crossed my mind. But somehow I can just hear my wife SCREAMING ENOUGH IS ENOUGH ALREADY

I've turned my one table workbench down in the basement into a full 12x12 main floor room as a combination modeling and computer man cave, but the addition of a small 6.1ci refreg, might really be pushing it past the infamous Red Line.

But if you can pull it off, you get the AutoModeler Medal of Merit for 2020 for sure.

Joel
RussellE
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 10:05 AM UTC
ooo-a bar fridge under the work bench-now there's a potentially dangerous combination
AussieReg
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 10:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You all gave me a thought, I'm going to add in a dorm or hotel room size fridge in my workshop.



Now we're talking, a fridge the size of a hotel room!
Dixon66
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 01:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

You all gave me a thought, I'm going to add in a dorm or hotel room size fridge in my workshop.



Now we're talking, a fridge the size of a hotel room!



A walk-in fridge from a restaurant? Sounds good to me.... Maybe my beer wouldn't go warm then.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 - 02:06 AM UTC
David,
You just might need to expand your man cave to accommodate that commercial refreg. and still have the room you need for building and displaying your models.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, February 20, 2020 - 07:43 AM UTC
Gary,
My dream job if I was qualified, which I'm not by any stretch of the imagination.

The Indy Cal decals arrived earlier this week and look great. As all of Michael's decals they're just one big decal and you have to cut them apart as close as possible to the inks or it's flash city. He also doesn't supply any decal placement, so I'm going to have to make sure that I have all the info before I start decaling in a week or so.

I'm betting that you're right that the car you heard was most likely a Porsche 935 series, has Garretson back them drove them in some sort of arrangement with Dick Barbour (Racing).

Joel

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