Since I'm still waiting on decals to arrive and inspired by James' conversion of the Starliner to a NASCAR build and Gabe's Daca conversion, I've decided to have a go at a conversion of a Revell 1/25 2006 Mustang GT to an SCCA Touring 2 class machine.

The rules for the class state that the exterior body work isn't to be modified, the exterior is to be stripped, the fuel tank can remain stock or a fuel cell can be added into the trunk as long as the floor pan isn't cut. Most of the dash has to stay but the steering wheel can be changed to a quick disconnect. If the doors are gutted, then the rollcage needs to extend out into the door similar to the way NASCAR cages look.

I got started by cutting out the armrest and speaker from the door cards.


Since I'm not going to fully gut the doors I drilled and cut a bare door panel. The pencil marks on the back piece are so that I can drill that one out to match. Both will get secondary flat black filler to give the illusion of the inside of the door (thanks Gabriel!)


The interior chassis pan had the speaker grills removed from the parcel shelf, almost went all the way through while filing, I'll fill them in with white putty to reinforce the area. Once I figure out how to remove the rear arm rests from the side panels I'll build the required block off panel to seal out the trunk area from fire. The floor had a molded in texture to replicate carpet, I think I got it all removed. The center console area will just get the shifter and parking brake handle.


The body is all one piece and there are very few mold lines to clean up. Nice that I don't have to attach the F/R fascias


The dash will have the sides of the center stack removed and the radio replaced with a switch panel as I've seen on a couple examples.





I'm going to use Kona Blue on the exterior and either white or light gray on the interior. Most examples I've found have yellow, orange or red.

Wish me luck!

Hi David,

Good luck! This looks like a cool project

Cheers
Nick

Good luck. Seems that most conversion work will be interior.

Thanks Nick.




Thanks KSO, The cage is going to be the hardest bit. Total scratch, 6 point cage with lots of cross bracing and parallel double door bars. I hope I don't run out of 2mm/.080" rod stock. There are bound to be several scrapped parts. Trying to figure how high the main hoop will be is probably going to be the first challenge and then fitting the forward bars. The rest is just cut an fit.

I may try making a sanding jig to make fishmouthing the ends easier.

Haha! OMG! I have become overnight a scratch-building influencer! LOL! I did that to hide away my poor craftsmanship. Unlike my door panels, yours look neat and well thought over! Very nice!
I'm following this one, you can bet!

Gabriel

This is great David, a really cool project with scratchbuilding, modifications and subject matter that hits the mark with our current Group Build.

Best of luck with the build, I will be following closely and looking forward to progress reports coming through.

Cheers, D

Thanks guys. Gabriel, I take influence from where I see it.

David,
Now this is one great project for sure. I'm a Ford type of Guy in the racing world when there's no Porsche's around Nothing like SCCA spec racing as they tried to keep the class through the rules as simple as possible.

I'm looking forward to your interior modifications, especially the conversion of the stock dash.

for what it's worth, I vote for a light gloss Gray interior over gloss White. In scale the gray looks so much better.

Joel

Thanks Joel, you know where I stand on the "Blue Oval" (see signature below if in doubt) LOL

I'm leaning towards gray as well, might be as simple as a clear over MSP 1500 Gray or a mix of Gray and White MSP (anyone ever tried mixing the two?)

Second interior door was drilled out and sanded to size today. Started on the inner door panel a little bit ago but broke my only #61 (.039") drill bit.

Still trying to figure out how to remove the rear seat panels from the interior sides.

Gabriel has a surplus vinyl cage, if you're interested

Well, Frak!!!!!

I muffed up the dash modifications something fierce. First, I slipped with the scriber and then the razor saw cut into the center stack. I also found out that when I cut out the area below the steering column that I removed the mounting for the pedal assy.

I am so pissed at myself right now and almost binned it. Going to wait a little bit and see if I can either find a cheap one online or see if Revell can ship a replacement sprue (I doubt highly that this is possible, especially at this point in time).

Don't bin it, yet.
I have this kit. It looks like the same part as in your picture above.
https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/2/4/0/133240-16153-55-pristine.jpg

If you can use the dash out of this kit to try again, I can trade you for yours. I don't need a perfect dash part for this project (which I haven't even started yet). Just need some representation through he glass.

We can trade mailing addresses in PM. Let me know.

Hi David,

That is a bummer - sorry to hear the news. Is there any way you can rebuild what you cut up? Maybe start with lots of glue and what’s left of the cut up parts - get the basic form together as a single strong part - maybe even a lot rough. Once it sets solid, start reshaping - cutting, filing, sanding, adding evergreen etc until you have something to restart with? Like welding plates over/on to rust holes in a chassis? I’ve had some luck with this method, you’re essentially building a new part while keeping the original size, proportion etc. Really thin (.01) evergreen sheet is pretty mailable and can cover a lot of un beautiful repairs. I hate overcutting with the razor saw - but, I do it enough to know it can be a headache.

I’ll bet you’ll repair it and it will look good when you’re done.

Nick

Thanks for the offer KSO, I'm using the exact same kit, but the bottom of both sides are cut off and the side pieces of both sides of the center are cut off as well, I could not in good conscience trade it to you.

I figure I can maybe putty the side. It is close to where the switch panel is going. I may be able to mask it somehow.

No worries but good for you to try and work with what you got. Like Stick says, it's all just styrene plastic and a lot of putty and glue compatible products out there.

However, if you still want to trade later, it's no worries because this is the project I want to build. As you can see in the following images, it can't be as nutty as 1/1 scale reality

https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnrudy/3776589010/
http://www.remarkablecars.com/for-sale/data/2280/large/ford-2006-11120.jpg
http://www.remarkablecars.com/for-sale/data/2280/large/ford-2006-11123.jpg
http://www.remarkablecars.com/for-sale/data/2280/large/ford-2006-11122.jpg

OK, my ham handed dash would look just fine in there.

Anyway, I went downstairs after the last post and picked the dash up off the floor on the other end of the workshop from where it was launched. I put a .020" backer of sheet stock and I'll putty it up tomorrow after it cures overnight. It'll allow me to use the same putty to fill in the CD slot and other details on the radio panel at the same time.

I'm going to have to modify the pedals to hang from the firewall, or I think I have a set of pedals from a scrapped NASCAR kit I can steal for there instead (it was heavily damaged during the move a couple years ago).

David, glad to see you recovered the accident. Looking for following updates.

As Jesper, knows, I have a vinyl roll cage at your disposal any time. What Jesper doesn't know it is that I have 2 vinyl cages, one from each Gordini. So there you go - you are set for a couple more builds. Just give me a sign!

Gabriel

Thanks guys, back on track. All the interior mods are done except for the greeblies for behind the dash and the roll cage build.

I'm looking for a 1/25 racing seat suitable for road racing, waiting on a quote from a resin caster in Omaha, NE to get back to me.

Gabriel, I may be able to help you sort a fire bottle for the rally Daca if he gets back to me, his are only 0.75 USD each. I'll mail one to you once they get in.

Started assy on the engine, which is surprisingly nice, the 6 speed Tremec looks great. Body is cleaned up and ready to get hit with primer. I'll take some pictures tomorrow.

I like the breakdown on the chassis and body on this kit. Separate firewall, chassis pan, interior has the underhood side molded to it, front and rear fascia molded to the body shell, rear axle and K member molded using slide mold tech, etc.

This kit has sit in the stash for more than 10 years.

Isn't it great to drag something from the stash and find that it actually looks to be a much better kit than you recall 10 years ago when you put it away!

Looking forward to more progress reports David, sounds really good.

Cheers, D

Definitely, but then there was also a 5 year hiatus from building in that time as well, plus, my interests went to all military and sci-fi for a part of that time too.

You guys have dragged me back into "glossies" in a way I have never built before.

Sorry for the picture heavy update. I'm having fun with this one.

I think I'm going to turn this into my Strip Track & Trail GB build if that is OK with the the group build leader(s).

Frame rail slots filled and sanded.


The chassis pan is very nicely detailed, the heat resistant insulation is particularly well done.


The K frame is also well done, dry fit into place.


Engine dry fit


Interior cutting is done. Still need to drill more switches into the electric panel.


The wheels will be stripped and painted a gunmetal color.


The hood underside is well detailed. Ejector pin marks are pretty well disguised. In a first for me, the sprue attachment points were the hinge points, not anywhere along the sides, front or back of the hood. Fit is perfect into the body shell.


The electric fan blades are molded into the radiator shell, the ejector pin marks are hidden by the shroud. I'll paint the cooling fins aluminum and the blades semi gloss black.



The engine is mostly assembled, the upper plenum, risers, belt drive, oil pan and intake & exhaust manifolds are just dry fit. Nice representation of the Tremec 6 speed.





Probably the best fitting exhaust manifolds I've ever had, deep locating pins and a tight fitting into the heads too.


Interior dry fit.

Glad to be of service

Joel and I were just discussing the really great increase in traffic on AutoModeler, and the sensational quality of work going on here.

I'm glad to see that you have worked past the dash incident and are moving forward with this build, excellent recovery from what I can see!

I can't see any reason why this build couldn't be slotted in to the current Group Build, it fits the rules and will be a great addition to the list.

Cheers, D

Thanks D. The cut into the dash wasn't anywhere near as bad as I initially thought it was. I was able to back it and fill the diagonal cut with two part putty.

I agree that the quality on this site is excellent and getting better all the time. I know I've learned a lot from all you here.

My own meager skills are improving even if by osmosis.

Cool project David, i will be following your build, i had a 2006 Mustang Gt last year but had to trade it in on a daily commuter car, mom was to old to get into the Mustang any more.